refried beans

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tortilla1I’ve tried lots of recipes for flour tortillas and they’ve never worked out well. It’s possible that I’d had a martini too many prior to venturing into the kitchen each time, but that’s never really been a problem before. Anyhow, I abandoned the recipe books and did a little experimenting until I finally cracked it – the perfect martini. Then I thought I would try tortillas.

As someone who I must admit makes perfect pizza base (How To Make A Vegetarian Pizza From Scratch) at least once a week, I thought this would be a breeze. However, the mighty tortilla has very little in common with pizza as I discovered to my cost when I mixed up the recipes and my Saturday night mozzarella-feast came out of the oven crunchy as a Ritz cracker.

Tortillas have more in common with Indian breads like rotis or chapatis - there is more oil in there and a bit less water, so when you roll them out don’t put flour on the worktop. It’ll just confuse your rolling pin. Most of the recipes I’ve seen call for lard to be used which frankly makes me want to hurl. There’s absolutely no reason to use lard, vegetable oil is far better and makes this a vegetarian delight.

Now after much trial and error, in roughly equal measure, I am delighted to present you with Armstrong’s recipe for perfect flour tortillas. I’m here doing this stuff so you don’t have to, so be grateful.

Flour Tortillas From Scratch – Makes 4 big ones or 8 munchkin versions

4oz white flour

4oz wholemeal flour

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon baking powder

6 tablespoons of vegetable oil

3 1/2 oz of lukewarm water

Mix the flours, salt and baking powder together in a bowl then add the oil. You need to work the oil in with the back of a spoon for a few minutes until the mixture is blended like a biscuit base.

Now add the water and get stirring. It will take a few minutes before the consistency is just right. The mixture should be stretchy and elastic. Cover with a damp cloth and leave to rest for 15 minutes.

At this point you could consider once again how lucky you are to have me as your tortilla mentor.

After 15 minutes of this meditation, seperate the mixture into ball shapes and put your frying pan or skillet on a high heat. You don’t need any oil in the pan. Roll the first ball out into an oval. Turn the oval then roll out into a circle. The mixture will stick to the worktop and when you lift it, it should feel like an oily membrane.

When the pan is nice and hot, add the first tortilla. Now get rolling the second one. After around a minute, you’ll see bubbles forming in the pan. Don’t panic. That’s when you turn it over for another minute. Don’t leave it in too long or it will turn crispy. When it’s done, add it to a plate and cover with the damp cloth. The trick is to keep them soft and supple.

When you’re done, add the filling and roll up into your shape of choice. Toothpicks are handy for pinning them together, but not essential. I usually cover these with cheese and stick them in the oven for a couple of minutes to let it melt.

Don’t forget my previous masterclass on How to make Refried Beans from scratch, and later I will add my Armstrong Guacamole recipe just to make your Mexican experience complete. You really are a very lucky audience.

- George

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beansIt’s a scandal. A disgrace. At the very least, a bit unusual. The term ‘refried beans’ to me conjures up a vast cauldron of mush that’s been deepfried for an eternity, transferred to another pot with an inch of lard in it then stewed for another lifetime before a nice bit of shallow frying as a finishing touch.

In fact it turns out that not only is there no ‘re-frying’ going on in the process, there’s virtually no frying either and believe it or not refried beans, that great staple of Mexican food, is actually a really healthy dish.

I’d been eating refried beans out of a can for years (not straight out of a can you understand, I’d generally heat them in a saucepan first) before my local store began stocking a ‘vegetarian version.’ A vegetarian version – you mean what I’ve been eating all this time wasn’t vegetarian? Holy hell, is nothing sacred?

But it seems that the very miniscule amount of shallow frying that is required to make this marvellous misnomer of a dish is going to require an oil of some sort. And that’s where the problem lies. Whilst I may think that using anything other than a light dash of extra virgin to saute some onions would be akin to heresy, not everyone agrees with this approach - least of all whatever Mexican genius came up with it in the first place.

So to be sure I knew exactly what was going in there, I decided to try my own version. It’s very easy, seriously inexpensive and the humble pinto bean, which is at the dish’s heart, is very high in protein and fiber. Weighed against these plus points is the time factor. Raw pintos require an overnight soak beforehand and need a good hour to boil, but if you’re prepared for that Mexican feast, and I generally am, this shouldn’t be too much of a problem.

So the scandal and disgrace I mentioned at the start is not the fact that some canned varieties are not veggie, but the fact that this wonderful side dish to my home-rolled tortillas and Armstrong Guacamole (more on that later) has been maligned as a fried food. Fried and refried! Balderdash!

Now before I take my martini, here’s a recipe. As a side dish, this will feed four. But in my house it’s three because I’m a pig.

How To Make Refried Beans From Scratch

1/2 lb raw pinto beans (amount as shown in picture above)

2 tsp garlic powder

2 tsp cumin

1 onion finely sliced

Olive Oil

Make sure the beans have soaked overnight and that there was plenty water because they’ll expand. The next day, drain the beans and give them a good wash. Place them in a pot, cover with water and bring to the boil. Cover the pan and simmer on a low heat for an hour or until they’re soft.

Heat another pan with a dash of oil then add the onion. Sweat on a low heat for a few minutes until they’re soft too. Everything’s soft in this recipe.

Drain the beans then get your masher out and get busy. You can add some water to get the right consistency.

Add the fried onions to the mix and stir in the spices. Season to taste, make sure it doesn’t dry out, give it a final stir, then you’re ready to go.

I’ve been experimenting with the spices. You can use coriander, chilli, cayenne pepper and cardamom and oddly enough even Italian herbs such as thyme, sage and oregano work really well. It’s a free for all in my kitchen.

And if you really are too lazy to do refried beans from scratch, here are some excellent Organic Vegetarian Refried Beans.

- George

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